By KNUT-ERIK HELLE
(Text and photos)


With simple means and old knowledge a gang of young environmentalists try manage on a little island in the harsh gap of the norwegian west coast ocean. The place is Litle Faeroy, a small island far out in the Norwegian sea, outside Sognefjorden. They want to retire from the modern way of life and take a step back in history. Has something been lost in the restless rush for progress? Is there a good and rich life in balance with nature hidden back in time?

Rich life


The youth is guided by three pathfinders of open air life. They want to show a path to a simpler and richer way of life. A life that can help with the recovery from western civilisation.

«We want to show the old way of life by the sea», pathfinder Roar Moe says. A life in proximity to nature demands a special kind of knowledge. A kind of knowledge that has to be lived and tried in practice to be learned, Moe elaborates. The youth must fumble their way to knowledge. The pathfinders prevents the errors, in the harsh conditions of the sea, grave errors can prove fatal. But the youngsters get away with fumbling.«Classroom teaching is useless here», pathfinder Rune Eraker adds, and hands out work tasks to eager environmentalists. A lot needs to be done. The boats must be made ready for use, the meadow has to be mowed with scythes and someone must go fishing for dinner.

Addicted to grass


The old wooden boats needs a lot of care before they can be set to sea after haveing spend the winter on shore. The pine hulls must be covered by fresh tar and plenty cracks in the hulls must be made tight with fat. These boats were the nerve of life on the west coast of Norway, and were cared well for with all means. A other work party tries to sharpen the blades of the scythes. Even with help from pathfinder Thomas Aslaksby, it is not easy. «You must hear when the grindstone touches the edge-steel», Akslaksby explains patiently, and stresses the need for diligence. «Take your time and don't rush», he adds, and let one of the city environmentalist have a try. Heavy sighing can soon be heard over the unfathomable and capricious aspects of grindstone work. The old fashion hand-forged scythe-blades have a hard time. After a while the young ones are ready for the meadow. A good swing with the scythe is a even more difficult craft than the grindstone-work, but after a day of mowing the grass falls measured and nice. However, some practice is still needed to compete with the artistic touch of the people that mowed the meadow a hundred years ago. «It is absolutely possible getting addicted to grass-mowing with scythes», youngster Bjornar Berg proclaims after a long day at work in the meadow.

Otter in the fishing net


The sea is the pantry. No fish, no dinner. Fishing are not for lazy ones. «If you dont get the nets out of the sea early enough in the morning, they will be full of crabs», pathfinder Rune Eraker warns, and leave the youngsters to fumble in peace. There is no out-board motor, so some serious rowing has to be undertaken if dinner shall be secured. Not everybody is awake, when the nets are going out of sea in the morning.

«Look, a seal», Marius blazon abroad, and work hard to get the creature on board. But it is not a seal. Its a large, blue-grey and ugly fish. It is a wolf eel, literly called stone-bite in Norwegean. The disappointment was not very big. Wolf eel is a delicatessen. Far more youngsters were more disappointed when a otter died in the troll-yarn. Pathfinder Roar Moe soothe the youngsters with the fact that the number of otters is rising fast in the area.

Wind in the sails


After four days of work are the three old sailngboats ready to hit the water. First lesson is rowing. With six oars and just as many rowers in each boat, it is not an easy lesson to learn. When the boats were young, it was not unusual for the rowers to continue for eight hours non stop. Today the youngsters get blisters after only an hour of rowing. The task of the helms-man goes on rotation among the environmentalists. Hundred years ago, this was a task only a few got after half a life at sea. All are looking forward to the main event; to set sail. But first a lot of knots must be learnt, and moreover myriads of words and expressions.

«If you do not learn to make this knot blindfolded, the mast may fall down», warns Thomas Aslaksby. «I will start crying if that happens», he adds with a smile.

Wisdom in open air


Soon, the wind take hold on the sails. A rich smell of fresh tar and salthy sea fills the air. Some curious seals put their heads above water and just stares. A cupple of porpoises greets us. This is not the kind of boats theyre used to these days. We go up against the wind to make a turn. The easy wind gives us plenty of time to fumble. How did that knot look like again?These old boats belong to this windy surrondings, with steep mountains and rough waters. Since the vikings, thousand years ago, they have been built the same way, with the same knowledge, material and tools. There has been no need for any change. The boats are perfectly adapted to these waters. The square canvas, in just one piece, was the invention that made the vikings rulers of the sea. No European boat could catch them after a land-raid in England or elsewhere on the continent. If there was no wind, they still had the fastest boats to row.

The evenings are spent around the campfire, after one more fish-dinner. Lively discussions fills the chill evening-air.


«What is the good life?»


«A rich life with simple means, close to nature», some argues. After ten days as the last vikings, the youngsters head back to the big cities in boats driven forward by huge water-jet engines. Soon, the city will again have the upper hand. But still, with deep furrows in the hand og some thoughts richer. The simple life. The old life. A life that has to be lived and experienced to be maintained. Or else it will fade away.

(COPYRIGHT (C) Knut-Erik Helle. This article has been published in the regional newspaper Bergens Tidende, a long time ago and in some magazines.)